Surfing Today

For some reason I checked the surf report today.  It read:

Wave height: Knee to thigh high.
Water/Wave Conditions: Glassy with super clean form.
Wind: Light WNW.
Overall: Looks REALLY fun for a longer board or SUP. Beautiful sunny day.

I grabbed my surfboard and went surfing
It's simple
One thing about surfing is you think, "Did I forget something?"
And the next thought is, "I got the surfboard."
That's it.  You don't have to have wax, really.  Well you have to be wearing shorts.
Okay there's the rash guard.
Okay there is sunscreen.
Oh yeah... and the leash.
But I don't use a leash and it was late enough for no sunscreen.
Just the board.
Man, I made that complicated!

But no, for real, in a pinch... it's rudimentary.
A surfboard and a wave

First wave I caught
I thought
Wow!  This is a real wave
It was very very good

Next wave, I went backside
And I was wondering
Am I surfing goofy footed?
This feels odd

The best was when I grabbed the rail of my surfboard
And had to crouch down while flying by this kid
I could see my board from outside myself
I could see the tail fin splashing through the wave
Sort of angled
With my weight mid-front

It was a good day for surfing
Guess it's my vacation!

PS: I got the tax stuff sent in