October 7, 2017
Maria
For my vacation this year, I drove to Florida and surfed waves from Maria. I surfed Jax Beach, New Smyrna, Cocoa Beach and Ponce Inlet (in that order). I had worked out all year and surfed some here in Texas hoping that I'd take a surf trip in October. The waves were great and sometimes intimidating. My workout helped me get through the breakers - especially at New Smyrna where the waves roared on impact a couple hundred yards out. I didn't get tubed myself, but I saw people getting tubed - as I heard one surfer say "I got dry barrelled - just slip'n'slide". It was the perfect balance of working toward something without a definite plan. I'd never guessed I'd head to Florida for my end-of-the-year vacation. It's been over a week since I saw the sun rise in Cocoa Beach followed by surfing some of the best waves in my life followed by seeing the sun set in Destin at Princess Beach. I still see the mental picture I took on white sand dunes, a couple in the distance standing together enveloped by the setting sun. It made me think about "the day" - and on that particular day, I had one of the best.
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